Saturday 7 August 2021

Alahan Monastery - 22 July 2021

    Alahan is a complex of sacral buildings erected in the 5th century AD. The ancient name of the site could be Apadnas. It is located in the Göksu (ancient Kalykadnos) Valley in Mersin Province (then Isauria). The complex is believed to be planned as a pilgrimage centre and only later became a monastery (Hill 1996). It was built during the reign of Emperor Leo I, and later Emperor Zeno, in the time when the Isaurians rose to prominence in the court of Constantinople. A closer archeological survey by Gough in 1950s led to a conclusion the site was never finished.

Alahan - West Church *


Landform (Google Earth) N↑;
1 - Alahan, 2 - River Göksu *

Site plan (Hill 1996) *

    The Cave Church (A) is a small church (7,7 m long and 7,5 m wide) composed of two narrow aisles. The north aisle was cut into the rock face and has a recess at its east end. The south aisle was built of limestone masonry and had an apse which doesn't stand anymore. The interior of this church was plastered and painted (Hill 1996).

Cave Church (A) *

Recess of north aisle (A) *

    The West Church is the largest of surviving buildings at Alahan. Its dimensions are 36,5 m in length and 16 m in width. It was built on a basilica plan, like the overwhelming majority of early Christian churches in Cilicia. Its erection took place after the Cave Church and before the East Church. The West Church was characterized by fine, elaborate decorations hardly found elsewhere in the region (Hill 1996).

West Church (B) from west *

West Church (B) - southwestern corner *

West Church (B) from northeast *

Western doorway (B) *

    Rich decorations of the West Church (B) can be seen on its western doorway. The photo below shows the tertamorph with the four symbols of the Evangelists in the vision of Ezekiel. The symbols are: the Angel for Saint Matthew, the Lion for Saint Mark, the Ox for Saint Luke and the Eagle for Saint John. The ornaments made Gough think the Basilica (B) was dedicated to the Evangelists.

Ornamental lintel of doorway
from inside (B) *

Nave from west (B) *

North aisle from west (B) *

South aisle from west (B) *

Interior of B from southwest *

Walkway, ceremonial in old days *

Living quarters (C, centre)
 and baptistery (D, left) *

    The Baptistery is the only free-standing, early Christian building in Cilicia intended exclusively for baptismal purposes. In addition, it was probably the last major building erected in the complex what suggests the increasing number of visitors to Alahan and the necessary response to their needs. The Baptistery is almost entirely devoid of decorations, which may be due to already limited funds possessed by the monks (Hill 1996).

Baptistery (D) from southwest *

D, entrance from walkway *

D has two apses; view from southwest *

D, interior from northeast *

Baptismal font, well preserved (D) *

    There are at Alahan two funerary inscriptions commemorating residents named Tarasis, one apparently the son of the other. Tarasis the Elder seemed to be in charge of a guest-house in the precinct while Tarasis the Younger became a custodian of the complex in AD 461 (Hill 1996).

Funerary niches (E) *

Sarcophagus of Tarasis the Elder (E) *

Funerary inscription (E) *

Funerary niche (F) *

Prepared for Tarasis the Younger... (F) *

... but it's not clear if he was buried here (F) *

Shrine in front of tomb
of Tarasis the Elder (G) *

    The East Church (H) is the most well-preserved of all early Chrisitan churches in Cilicia. It was built on a 'domed basilica' plan measuring 23 m in length and 15 m in width (without the assimetrical narthex). 

Approaching East Church (H) *

East Church (H) from southwest *

East Church (H) from northeast *

Facade (H) *

Doorjambs and lintel of main
entrance (H) *

Modern platform within nave (H) *

Apse of H with double window and
synthronon (stair-like structure) *

Roofs of apse and tower collapsed (H) *

View from apse (H) *

On platform, looking west (H) *

On platform, looking north (H) *

On platform, looking east (H) *

On platform, looking south (H) *

    The tower of the East Church (H) seems to be light and delicate. Its topmost interior corners are filled with ornamental squinch arches which presumably carried a wooden dome. A masonry dome was also technically possible as the structure is actually more solid than it appears (Hill 1996).

Tower's northeastern squinch arch (H) *

Tower's southeastern squinch arch (H) *

Tower's southwestern squinch arch (H) *

Tower's northwestern squinch arch (H) *

North aisle (H) *

South aisle (H) *

Inside H *

East Church (H) from northwest *

    During the holidays, I stayed with my family by the sea, at Tömük, for more than two weeks. Thanks to this Alahan was within reach and I could drive these ca. 150 km to visit the site and some other places on the way back, too. I got up at 5 am that day and arrived at the destination before a caretaker even woke up. The complex impressed me immensely. The romantic location, the majesty of the buildings, the tranquility made my soul sing and my brain think I couldn't have a better morning. After some two hours of wandering I left the site with a bunch of positive emotions. Go to Alahan if you can!