Via Tauri - Sağlıklı - 2 May 2022

    Via Tauri was a stone road built in the 1st century AD by the Romans. The exact course of the road is not certain. It is known the tract led from the Capaddocian city of Tyana, across the Taurus Mountains, to Tarsos in Cilicia. The other cities connected to Via Tauri were Faustinopolis and Podondos. There is an ongoing discussion as to the location of the former polis. Some scholars place it by the modern village of Başmakçi, other in the vicinity of another rural settlement called Porsuk (Turchetto 2012). Depending on the location of the city, Via Tauri was running either a bit more or a bit less to the west in its Cappadocian part. Today, the Roman tract is almost completely covered by modern ways as the topography of the region leaves now and then builders with the same limited options.

Via Tauri at Sağlıklı *

Gülek Castle - 2 May 2022

    Gülek Castle is an Armenian castle built in the 12th century on a mountain top some 2 km southwest of the Cilician Gates. Its function was to control the Tarsus road (Roman Via Tauri), and impose tolls on merchants. The Armenians were neither the first nor the last to exploit the natural potential of the place which is situated at the altitude of 1530 m. Coins found by local treasure hunters inform us on the presence of the Byzantines and Arabs.  The Mamluks, who put an end to the Armenian Kingdom in the 14th century, manned the castle as well. However, it seems that no one before the Armenians built any fortifications on site as there are no traces of a stonework predating them (Edwards 1987). 

Typical Armenian gate (A on plan) *

Kanytelis / Kanlıdivane - 3 August 2021

    Kanytelis is an ancient settlement that came to life in the 3rd century BC, during the Hellenistic period. Interestingly, it never turned into a city and kept its rural character for centuries. Kanytelis was controlled by the Kingdom of Olba, and later, in the Roman period, by the city of Elaiussa-Sebaste. The village grew around a limestone sinkhole measuring 142 x 95 m and 50 m deep. The cavern, accessible in antiquity, had a sacred precinct at its bottom (Hill 1996).  Religious activities continued into the Christian period. In the 5th century at least five churches were built in Kanytelis, four of which can still be traced today. The settlement was abandoned in the 7th century and re-occupied by the Ottomans in the 16th century.

Kanytelis (Kanlıdivane) *

Cennet-Cehennem (Heaven and Hell) - 29 July 2021

    Cennet (Heaven) and Cehennem (Hell) are two limestone sinkholes located 1 km south of Narlıkuyu in Mersin Province. Hell is the smaller of the caverns with walls steep enough to prevent any access. Heaven, measuring 110 x 250 m and 70 m deep, offers a convenient descent that have been used by men since antiquity. At the southern end of Cennet there is an extensive cave at the mouth of which a church dedicated to Virgin Mary was built in the 5th century. This geological feature inspired the first known name for the whole cavern - Corycian Cave. It was an ideal habitat for crocuses, and the obtained saffron was exported from nearby Korykos (Corycus) (Hill 1996). The site is mentioned in the Greek myths as the place where the monstrous serpent Typhon was nurtured. On the edge of Heaven sits an over-ground Roman temple converted to a church.

Church of Virgin Mary at Cennet-Cehennem*

Meryemlık (Sanctuary of Saint Thecla ) - 22 July 2021

    Thecla was born in Ikonion (Konya) in the 1st century AD. She was a follower of Paul the Apostle, known as Saint Paul, and became a saint herself. She lived in the times difficult for Christians as the Roman Empire did not want the religion to spread. It forced Thecla to spend the last years of her life hiding in a cave near Seleukia (Silifke). Years after her death, in AD 313, the Edict of Milano imposed tolerance for Christianity within the empire. The new circumstances favoured the idea of turning the cave into a subterranean church what happened in the 4th century. Around the same time another church was built above the cave and the sanctuary became a popular pilgrimage destination (Hill 1996). This over-ground church was replaced by an impressive basilica erected in the second half of the 5th century.

Saint Thecla Cave Church *

Alahan Monastery - 22 July 2021

    Alahan is a complex of sacral buildings erected in the 5th century AD. The ancient name of the site could be Apadnas. It is located in the Göksu (ancient Kalykadnos) Valley in Mersin Province (then Isauria). The complex is believed to be planned as a pilgrimage centre and only later became a monastery (Hill 1996). It was built during the reign of Emperor Leo I, and later Emperor Zeno, in the time when the Isaurians rose to prominence in the court of Constantinople. A closer archeological survey by Gough in 1950s led to a conclusion the site was never finished.

Alahan - West Church *

Ayas Castle and Suleiman's Tower - 3 June 2021

    Ayas Castle is located in Yumurtalık on the western shore of Iskenderun Bay, approx. 60 km southeast of Adana. The place served as a significant port since the 3rd century BC when Seleukos Nikator founded Aigeai (Sayar 2010). This status persisted in the Middle Ages, especially after the Crusaders lost control of the Levantine ports in the last quarter of the 12th century. The great Venetian traveler, Marco Polo, visited Ayas on his way to and from China in 1271 and 1296, respectively. The current standing structure seems to have been erected by the Turks in the 16th century (Edwards 1987) and is more of a fortress than a castle. 

So-called Ayas Castle *

Mopsuestia / Misis - 27 March 2021

    Almost everything worth seeing at Misis is clustered around the 4th century AD Roman bridge on the Pyramos river (Ceyhan). Only the Roman windmill (G) is a bit further down the watercourse, but still within walking distance. Nothing was easily accessible on the day of my visit, and I was taking pictures from behind fences. Among notable structures unearthed at Misis to date is a neo-Hittite citadel from the 8th century BC located at the excavation mound (F). It means an ancient city already prospered here in the first centuries of the 1st  millennium BC. Its Hittite name could be Pahri as suggested by Prof. Helmuth Bossert in 1950s (misis.isma.cnr.it).

Mopsuestia / Misis (A) *

Tarsus - Donuktaş Roman Temple - 13 March 2021

    I spotted a small brown plaque while driving through Tarsus. The name on it, 'Donuktaş Roman Temple', was completely strange to me what sparked my interest. When I arrived there I saw a massive foundation of a former temple dedicated to Emperor Hadrian. The 2nd century AD structure, erected on the plan of rectangle, was 133,5 m long, 60,5 m wide and over 30 m high. The dimensions place it among the largest temples of the Ancient World (Tarsus Museum). 

Donuktaş Roman Temple *

Tarsus - Grand Mosque (Ulu Cami) - 13 March 2021

    The Grand Mosque was erected in 1579 by Ibrahim Bey, a member of the Ramazanoğlu family. It was built with blocks of limestone on the plan of rectangle. The longer walls were laid on the east-west axis. There is a courtyard adjacent to the northern wall of the structure with a peristyle and a fountain as architectural elements. The peristyle is covered with a number of small domes. The place offers that special lazy atmosphere enjoyed by many (me for sure!).

Grand Mosque's marble entrance *

Tumlu (Dumlu) Castle - 19 January 2021

    Tumlu Castle is an Armenian castle built in the 12th century. The handsome structure sits on a limestone outcrop ca. 150 m high. The Armenians were not the first to occupy the place as fragments of a Roman pottery, dated to the 1st and 2nd centuries AD, were found in situ (Pekol 2015). Within the stronghold's solid walls a garrison was stationed which protected an auxiliary trail from modern-day Imamoğlu town to the Kozan-Ceyhan road (Edwards 1987). The castle underwent restoration works in 2014-15 that had to be halted due to safety issues (Pekol 2015). At the time of my visit there was no tourist-friendly access to the interior. To get inside I climbed up an almost vertical rocky wall and squeezed myself through a postern in one of the towers. 

Tumlu Castle from east *

Yılankale (Snake Castle) - 19 January 2021 & 1 September 2018

    Snake Castle is a medieval Armenian castle erected on a limestone outcrop near the Ceyhan river and not far away from the modern city of Ceyhan. The structure is well preserved and attracts a lot of attention since it is visible from the D-400 road running from Adana to Osmaniye to its north. The ascent to the castle is from the south; it is steep at times and some climbing is necessary to get to the highest bailey.

 

Snake Castle from northeast *

Karasis - Hellenistic Fortress - 22 December 2020

    In 1996, Professor Sayar of Istanbul University was shown the vast ruins atop Mount Karasis in the Taurus Range. What was considered yet another medieval Armenian castle turned out to be a Hellenistic stronghold. Its partially standing walls, 2,4 km long, encircle the summit at the altitude of 900 m to 1050 m (Radt 2011). It took 1h45m for me to climb to the lower part of the fortress. There is no signposted path there, and the ascent is steep. There are two hallmarks at Karasis: the tower with an elephant chiseled above its entrance and the granary. The thing is that they are at opposite ends of the stronghold, and the terrain is very difficult to trek.

Karasis' 60-meter-long granary *

Kastabala / Kesmeburun - 19 November 2020

    It is not clear when the city was founded. Its Luwian name points to the Hittite period (c. 1700-1200 BC). The first written reference to Kastabala comes from an inscription in Aramaic (5-4th c. BC) and mentions 'Kastabalay'. In the Hellenistic time, the city became Hierapolis (2nd c. BC) only to regain its original name under Roman rule. The Romans brought peace and prosperity to Cilicia, and left many traces of their architectural genius behind. Also in Kastabala.

Kastabala *

Anazarbos (Anavarza) / Dilekkaya - Upper City - 10 October 2020

    After visiting the Lower City in July, I set off to continue my acquaintance with the ancient city of Anazarbos. On this occasion, I focused on the Upper City (or Acropolis) which is situated strategically on an isolated crag, 220 m above the Çukurova plain. It is speculated the location's advantages were first recognized by the Assyrians in the 9th century BC.  The majority of remains come from the medieval Armenian period, nevertheless. They are accessible after a short ascent from the southwest.

Anazarbos from northwest *

Magarsos (Magarsus) / Karataş - 21 September 2020

    The city was named after the Magarsia sisters of the Temple of Athena, where the Macedonian king, Alexander the Great, sacrificed an animal before going into war with the Persian king, Darius, in 333 BC (Hürriyet Daily News 2016). It is not clear when the city was built, but archaeologists tend to indicate the 5th century BC. Historical sources often link Magarsos to another Greek city - Mallos, whose location is yet to be discovered.

Magarsos theatre, 5th century BC;
capacity c. 4000 (Dervişoğlu 2016)

Elaiussa-Sebaste / Ayaş - 13 September 2020

   The ancient city of  Elaiussa was established by the Greeks in the 2nd century BC, but almost nothing has left from that time. It became Sebaste (Greek equivalent of Augusta) in 12 BC thanks to a Cappadocian client king, Archelaos, who ruled the city, and who wanted to honour Emperor Augustus (Sayar 2010). Elaiussa Sebaste thrived in the 1st century AD and was inhabited through the Roman and into the Byzantine periods. However, when the nearby city of Korykos flourished in the 500s, the settlement lost its importance, which led to its abandonment in time.

Elaiussa-Sebaste - aqueduct arch *

Olba - 7 September 2020

    Olba is a Hellenistic settlement with the Roman continuation (Durugönül 2001) situated approx. 85 km west of Mersin. It sits on a hill at the northern end of the Şeytan Deresi (Devil's Valley). The valley extends south for 25 km, finally reaching Korykos / Kızkalesi by the Mediterranean Sea. Initially, the site housed a garrison which controlled the valley traffic, but later the population of Olba became more diverse. Some time after 250 BC, 4 km west of their dwellings, the Olbians erected a temple dedicated to Zeus. In the Roman period, a new city was built around the shrine - Diokaisareia.

Nymphaion at Olba
 (immediately east of A) *

Uzuncaburç, Roman Road - 7 September 2020

    The road came as a great surprise to me. Prior to my arrival in Diocaeserea I knew nothing about its existence. I walked a few hundred meters on the solid stone surface. I didn't go to the beginning of the road, but I marched alongside the necropolis of Olba, finally reaching the small theatre you can see below. I have nothing but the admiration for the Roman builders.

Roman Road at Uzuncaburç *

Diokaisareia (Diocaesarea) / Uzuncaburç - 7 September 2020

    Diokaisareia is an ancient city located 90 km west of Mersin and 30 km north of Silifke. The city grew around the temple of Zeus Olbios erected in the Hellenistic period by the inhabitants of nearby Olba. According to Prof. Durugönül of Mersin University the temple was built 'not before 250 BC' (2001). In the early Roman period in Cilicia, Diokaisareia was declared a free city by Emperor Tiberius who ruled between AD 14 and 37. The decline of the city began in the 5th century AD.

Propylaia of Diokaisareia (A) *

Adamkayalar (Men of Rock) - 31 August 2020

    Men of Rock are Roman tomb reliefs dated back to the 2nd century AD. They are located in the valley locally known as Şeytan Deresi some 5 km northwest of Korykos (Kızkalesi). It's a place of great natural beauty and the atmosphere of mystery. If physically you are in a good shape you must see it. The path goes steeply down, and you need to measure every step you take what only adds to the Indiana Jones like experience! 

Roman tomb reliefs (A)*

Kozan (Sis) Castle - 1 August 2020

    Sis Castle was constructed by the Armenians some time in the 12th century AD, but they were not the first inhabitants of the site. It competed with Anavarza for importance to finally become the seat of Armenian kings. The length of the wall circuit was close to 3 km (Edwards, 1987).  I climbed up to the rock top, but soon after I heard my sweet daughter crying at the foot of the castle. I could do nothing but to rush down to her what left me with a shortage of photos. 

Ascent from east *

Kozan, Arıkan Mansion - 31 July 2020

    We arrived in Kozan on the first day of Bayram. We were the only guests in this place and we enjoyed every moment of absolute peace. Regarding the mansion, it was built by Armenians in the 19th cent. (AD of course) though the staff (nice people) claimed its Turkish origin.

Arıkan Mansion (A) *

Adana, Tepebağ - July 2020

    Tepebağ is a historical neighbourhood in the old town of Adana. It sits on a hill situated on the western bank of the Seyhan River which was navigable until 1950s when the Seyhan Dam was built for irrigation, electricity and flood prevention. Tepebağ is the place where the first Adana settlement was established in the Late Bronze Age, around 1500 BC. Unfortunately, the archaeological excavations on site, conducted by Çukurova University first and later by Bern University, were relatively short and small-scaled. Nevertheless, the scholars unearthed some interesting artefacts that are now displayed at Adana Museum. The current character of Tepebağ is rooted in the Ottoman period and the local history of Turks, Arabs and Armenians.

Tepebağ indeed *

Karatepe - 19 July 2020

    Karatepe is a neo - Hittite fortress located in the district of Kadirli in Osmaniye Province. The place was shown to archaelogists Helmut Bossert and Halet Çambel in 1946. The 8th century BC stronghold was the seat of a local ruler, Azatiwata, who named the site after himself - Azatiwataya. Karatepe is famous for its bilingual inscription in Hieroglyphic Luwian and Phoenician that was crucial in decipherment of the former script. The text, being mostly the list of glorious deeds of the above mentioned ruler, was inscribed on the gates of the fortress as well as on the statue of the Storm God within its premises. Unfortunately, boasting Azatiwata (or his successor) failed to push back the Assyrians who looted and burnt the fortress either around 720 or 680 BC.

Karatepe - neo-Hittite lion *

Flaviopolis (Ala Mosque) / Kadirli - 19 July 2020

    Flaviopolis was the ancient city founded by Emperor Vespasian in AD 73 (Sayar 2010) Vespasian was a member of the Flavian family which gave the name to the polis. The foundation took place a year after the Seleucids were finally stripped of their lands by Vespasian and Cilicia became fully Roman. Flaviopolis was the last city built in the region by the Romans (Sayar 2010). It is yet to be definitely confirmed that Kadirli is Flaviopolis, but the objects unearthed in situ, i.e. a Roman bath and villa with mosaics are strong leads in favour of such hypothesis. Today, where the city once stood, we can see a basilica from the 5th century, which was converted into a mosque, called Ala, in the Middle Ages.      

Looking from west *

Anazarbos (Anavarza) / Dilekkaya - Lower City - 12 July 2020 & 19 January 2021

    Anazarbos was an ancient city in Cilicia located on and alongside an isolated range of hills, ca. 220 m high. It is not clear who and when founded the city. It is speculated that the Upper City was first inhabited by the Assyrians, and the Greeks gave a start to the Lower City. Local scholars claim that currently used name 'Anavarza' has its origin in the Persian word 'nezarba' meaning 'invincible'. The Persians had been present in Cilicia for some 200 years before the arrival of Alexander the Great in 333 BC. The city rose to prominence under the rule of Rome when it became the 2nd most important centre in the region after Tarsos.

Anazarbos *